Stepping Out: Jeffrey’s boasts eclectic mix of culinary gems

LARAMIE — For a small city, Laramie has a surprisingly well-preserved and attractive historic downtown, with a number of handsome buildings built between the 1880s and the turn of the century.

One of these is the home of Jeffrey’s Bistro, itself an unusual asset to a city of Laramie’s size. Though Jeffrey’s is not a vegetarian restaurant exactly and not necessarily a new-age restaurant, it offers a menu unique in town, featuring not only meatless meals but also a wide range of other imaginative and intriguing dishes.

Jeffrey Stoller himself has difficulty describing his bistro’s menu, settling for the general adjective, “eclectic.”

Jeffrey’s is easy to spot at the corner of Second and Ivinson streets, with its generous green-and-white striped awnings hanging over the sidewalk. The ambience is warm and traditional. Well-worn wood floors, exposed brick walls, attractive hanging plants, and wooden booths with brass fittings and padded seats encourage you to settle in for a relaxed (and, if possible, lengthy) meal. This is a small cafe, with a capacity of no more than 50 patrons, but, thanks to the high ceilings and tall windows, the feeling is one of space and comfort.

We considered five choices of entree salads, numerous sandwiches (ranging from the standard grilled cheese to the more unusual cashew-raisin egg salad) and an array of main dishes (which included corn-and-black-bean enchiladas, prosciutto-and-mushroom fettuccini, and savory pot pie). Two specials, four-cheese pasta and New England chicken stew, were also tempting.

As it turned out, our lunch started with a “build your own” salad, thanks to a misunderstanding on my part.

I assumed I was ordering a moderate-sized house salad, with a fine combination of ingredients supplemented by two more, which I had added for a nominal extra cost. The huge bowl of mixed greens, sprouts, purple cabbage, tomatoes, carrots, corn salsa, radishes, and fresh croutons that arrived with lime cilantro dressing was a bit of a surprise, but we tackled it with a will, finishing almost half before prudently putting down our forks.

My wife’s grilled sandwich, made with home-baked bread and a tasty and spicy filling of humus, black olives, and red onion, and accompanied by corn chips, was a fine main order for the moderate appetite.

I decided to try something more substantial. My chicken marsala was simply outstanding, the kind of entree Richard H. Collin, author of the New Orleans Underground Gourmet, calls “a platonic dish.”

The chef had sauteed the chicken breast with marsala, sage and slices of apple and served it with a portion of fresh spinach, which he had added to the pan just before the chicken was done. If we lived in Laramie, I would eat chicken marsala at Jeffrey’s once a week.

Our desserts, chosen from a selection of almost a dozen, were good, though not as unusual as the main dishes. My slice of torte had a flaky crust and a pleasant though unremarkable filling of lemon and cherry flavor. Her brownie, topped by two scoops of good vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce and cherries marinated in liqueur, was rich and satisfying.

The coffee we drank with our desserts was the real thing, made with care and not as an afterthought. Considering how much we ordered, the cost of our meal was moderate, approximately $30. The pleasure we took in the fine food at Jeffrey’s was heightened by the excellent service.

Jeffrey Stoller and his partners, Alan Cupps and Jean Trabing, opened Jeffrey’s in 1983. From the beginning they have emphasized imaginative menu choices, good and wholesome ingredients, and preparing everything themselves.

Stoller, Cupps, and Trabing also co-own the adjoining Sara’s Bakery, which prepares all the bread and desserts used in the bistro. Jeffrey’s has built a loyal clientele of people from neighboring businesses and university teachers, students and staff, supplemented by outsiders who know of the restaurant by its spreading regional reputation.

Jeffrey’s Bistro is open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

In addition to coffee and tea and an excellent selection of soft drinks, Jeffrey’s serves a choice of wines and a half dozen microbrewery beers and ales. The phone number is (307) 742-7046. If you are coming from out of town, continue on U.S. Highway 287 under the freeway to Third Street (or from Interstate 80 take the Third Street exit), drive to Ivinson, and turn left to Second Street.

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